Green Papaya is an urban retreat from the hustle-and-bustle of downtown Bethesda, Maryland (and Washington, DC), serving a wide variety of fine Vietnamese cuisine: 1. Prawn-Mint Summer Roll; 2. Vine-Wrapped Beef; 3. Golden Pancake with Shrimp; 4. Grilled Lemongrass Pork with Rice Vermicelli, Daily Mixed Salad, and Nuoc Mam; 5. Crispy Whole Flounder with Romaine, Cilantro, and Ginger Sauce.

What makes it fine: Owner Michael Pham brings fine Vietnamese dining to Bethesda via outstanding grilled-marinated meats resembling Bool-go-gi/Bool-gal-bi of Corean cuisine, Pho soup, and other delicate appetizers/small plates.  The food is wonderfully savory, aromatic and herby, lightly sweet-and-sour, charred, fresh, and occasionally fiery.  The interior is beautiful, romantic, and tranquil with serene New Age music, ceiling-to-counter waterfall, and neat antiques/artworks.  Their beautiful bar area is also home to an array of wonderful cocktails.  Green Papaya is my favorite Vietnamese restaurant!

Cost: $9-35 for lunch, $9-$45 for dinner (pre-tax/tip/alcohol per person).

The Occasion: Green Papaya is a terrific value for a wide range of occasions, from fine, healthful, and hearty lunch on a budget, to light dinner of Pho, small plates, or fancy dinner of luxurious ingredients.

Favorite Dishes: Green Papaya’s culinary strengths are with its special small plates/appetizers, succulent grilled meats, and delicate Pho soup.  Among the small plates, the Prawn and Mint Summer Rolls, Vine-Wrapped Grilled Beef, Golden Roasted Quail, and Golden Pancake standout.  The Summer Roll is a delicate combination of steamed prawn, rice vermicelli, refreshing mint, and a sweet-nutty peanut dipping sauce.  The Vine-Wrapped Beef is lightly fragrant with the crisply-charred vine and tender marinated beef, paired with salad and rice vermicelli for a balanced appetizer.

A bigger small plate is the Golden Roasted Quail: four halves of tender, juicy, and savory poultry—good to the crunchy bones—atop refreshing papaya salad and tangy lemon-pepper sauce.  Like the Quail, the Golden Pancake is a substantial small plate perfect for sharing or as the base for a lighter meal.  The pancake is truly fine dish: incredibly crisp on the outside with an almost creamy and tender inside with shrimp, chicken, and crisp bean sprouts (I recommend requesting it without chicken).  It is the most amazing savory crêpe and balanced with fresh lettuce and cucumber slices!

In terms of entrées, Lemongrass Grilled Pork is my very favorite.  It is like Bool-go-gi with its savory and lightly sweet marinade, but with the added zip of lemongrass to give it its trademark fragrant note characteristic of Southeast Asian cuisine.  While the pork version with the Nuoc Mam on the side (better than pork in the sauce to retain its charred outside taste) is my favorite for its combination of juiciness, flavor, and texture, the beef and chicken versions are also outstanding.  When you want a non-meat option, Golden Tofu is a great option.  I request it to be spicy, adding a pretty reddish tinge and heat to tie together the crisp bean curd with broccoli, zucchini, French Beans, snap peas, baby corn, and mushrooms.

For fish-lovers, the Crispy Whole Flounder is delightful combination of crispy exterior, moist and tender meat, and tangy-sweet ginger dipping sauce—providing a complementing touch of awakening flavors as well as seasoning to the delicate meat and crunchy fins, tail, and head.  Amply sized for two, the fresh-tasting  fish comes with crisp romaine lettuce and cilantro for refreshing balance; plus, request garlic on the side to add another kick to your meal.

Green Papaya prepares soul-warming soups: 1. Pho with complementary accompaniments of sprouts, basil, and garlic on the side; 2. Pho combined with accompaniments; 3. Minced Crab and Bean Sprout Soup; 4. Golden Tofu (requested spicy); 5. Golden Roasted Quail.

Vietnamese cuisine in the DC area is best known for Pho, the savory beef soup with rice noodles, cilantro, basil, and onions.  While not as diverse in its offerings of various parts of the cow (i.e. tripe or tendon), Green Papaya prepares a delicate version with tender, thinly sliced beef perfect as a warm start to a meal or a cleansing meal in a bowl.  In addition to the Pho, the Minced Crab and Bean Sprout Soup is a gentle soup offered as part of their lunch time specials.  The fluffy minced crab’s flavors gently permeated the broth and contrasted with the crisp vegetables.

What to Avoid: In general with caramelized dishes in Vietnamese cuisine, I am not a fan of its immensely sweet taste.  I personally would not order them with so many other items noted above to enjoy.

Special Tips: When ordering Pho, request bean sprouts, basil, jalapeño and/or garlic.  They come at no extra charge and add refreshing flavors and textures to the hearty beef noodle soup.

For more information on Green Papaya, click here.